Town – Vejer

The full name of the town is Vejer de la Frontera, which shows that it was one of a string of fortified, Moorish towns which made up the border between Christian Spain and Islamic Al Andalus.

It is one of the famed Pueblos blancos, the striking white towns of Andalucia, cubist citadels, which cling to mountainous outcrops. For 700 years this was an Arabic stronghold high over the plain of the River Barbate, defending the approach to Africa from Crusaders. The beautiful old church was originally a mosque and synagogue and our house, inside the fortifications, is next to the ancient Jewish quarter. It overlooks the beautiful Cape of Trafalgar, which is about 10 kilometers away, with splendid beaches all along the coast. Morocco hovers in the near distance.

When Vejer became a Christian town, old sartorial habits remained and until about 70 years ago the local women still wore a large black cape, la Cobijada, covering their bodies and faces. This is still the symbol of the town, although today the girls of Vejer wear very little.

During the Civil war there was fierce fighting here when local agrarian anarchists stormed the town, only to be beaten back, ironically by Franco’s Moorish regiments. Many anarchists were summarily thrown from the ramparts. Today Vejer is still a rather conservative place, except during the numerous fiestas when the anarchist side re-emerges and they go collectively nuts.

Tourism is now the main employer and the town has become internationally famous for its beautiful winding streets and squares. So there are numerous restaurants and boutiques, even a Hamam, but it has preserved its unique character. Farming is still important and the area produces sunflowers, olives and cattle. The town is now a national monument and does attract its share of bemused looking people with cameras around their necks, especially at Easter and in August when the town is busiest. Most of the visitors though are still Spanish, and it keeps Spanish hours and customs, so closes for siesta every day, dinner is late and days are lazy.